We’ve just come back from the most magical week basing ourselves in Villard-de-Lans, a small town tucked away in the mountains and valleys of the Isère region in France. Honestly I don’t think we’ve stopped daydreaming about it since we got home! If you’ve been craving crisp mountain air, glacial lakes, beautiful villages with wooden shutters, and just enough adventure to keep the whole family buzzing—then this one’s for you.
Here’s what we got up to during our week in Isère—think of it as your friendly, low-key guide to a place that surprised and delighted us every step of the way.
Day 1 – Arrival in Villard-de-lans
Our journey began with a scenic trip through the French mountains, winding through lush green valleys and under craggy limestone cliffs. We arrived at our charming apartment Le Splendid (via Peak Retreats) in Villard-de-Lans. Our apartment featured a main bedroom, living area with balcony (and views onto the mountains) alongside a kitchenette. The bathroom was a great size for a family of four and our children had a twin bedroom on the second floor.
After unpacking and a short walk around the village, we stocked up on local produce—cheese, bread, and Chartreuse liqueur (for the adults!)—from the nearby market. Dinner was a rustic affair enjoyed al fresco, with the dramatic silhouette of the mountains against a pink-streaked sky setting the perfect backdrop for our first night on our week to come.
Day 2: Hiking the Cóte 2000
The next morning, we set out to hike the Cóte 2000 a peak not far from the village that promised sweeping views and—most importantly—manageable trails for little legs. A free shuttle bus will take you from Villard-de-Lans to the bottom of the mountain and then take the cable car up to an altitude of 1720.
We took a medium level walk which was three hours in total which we felt was perfect for the ability levels of our family. The hike was every bit as beautiful as we’d hoped. We didn’t manage to see any marmots but we did see two eagles!
Panoramic views of the Chartreuse mountains stretched out in every direction. We laid out a picnic of baguettes and local cheese that we had picked up that morning from the delicatessen ‘Aux Gouts du Terrior’.
Tip: The route’s mostly well-marked, but bring layers—it’s breezy up there even on sunny days.
Back in the village, we rewarded ourselves with galettes and crêpes at La Crêperie, a cosy little spot that hit the perfect post-hike comfort food note—crispy edges, melty cheese, and a round of cider for the grown-ups.
Day 3 – Mountain Dogs, Ball Games & Goat Ice Cream
We started our morning in Corrençon-en-Vercors with an activity called Cani-Rando, which I’ll admit I hadn’t heard of before this trip. Basically, you’re harnessed to a very well trained dog (ours were from Sandra at Extra Pattes) and go for a hike together. The kids absolutely loved it. There was a real sense of connection with the animals, and Sandra was brilliant at pairing each of us with the right dog based on age and confidence level.
After the hike (and lots of fussing over our new four-legged friends), we headed to Le Clariant for lunch—a little hidden gem of a restaurant tucked into the trees. The walk from the Cani-Rando activity to the restaurant was around 30 minutes. Arriving at Le Clarinet felt a bit like stepping into a woodland fairy tale. We sat on the terrace surrounded by greenery and the backdrop of the alps. All the produce served is seasonal and they pride themselves on using sustainable methods in all areas (solar power, rainwater collection and filtering and the nicest compost toilet I’ve ever used).
Next up was something completely different: Roule Ma Boule, an outdoor wooden game area where the kids ran wild while we sat nearby and relaxed. It’s such a clever concept—simple games made from natural materials, perfect for all ages. This activity is directly behind Le Clariant so you can easily make a whole afternoon of the two especially when the weather is good.
To round off the day, we made our way to La Chèvrerie des Cabrioles, a sweet little goat farm where you can not only meet the animals but also sample some of their delicious homemade goat’s milk ice cream (don’t knock it ‘til you try it—it was so creamy and refreshing!). They also served fresh sorbets for those like my daughter who are dairy free.
We also stocked up on goodies like fresh cheese to take home. The children got to pet the goats and even learned a bit about how the products are made. It was such a lovely, hands-on way to connect with the land and the people who care for it.
Day 4 – Slow Town Wanders, Stories Under the Stars
After a few days of hiking we decided to take things a bit slower—and honestly, I think we all needed it. We spent the morning just pottering around the apartment, reading, eating, and watching the mist curl over the mountains from our window. It’s worth noting that at Le Splendid they offer a breakfast basket each morning full of croissant, baguette, juice, coffee and jams.
Later, we went out to explore more of Villard-de-lans, which, as it turns out, has plenty of little corners to fall in love with. During the summer months in the afternoon the streets are made pedestrianised and games are placed for everyone to play with. The kids were also surprisingly into the Maison du Patrimoine, the local heritage museum right in town. It’s small but thoughtfully done, with old photographs, tools, and hands-on displays that tell the story of mountain life here. They especially liked the model of the old cable car and learning about how people lived here through the seasons.
In the evening, we took a walk through the woods to Le 3636, a friendly and welcoming spot for dinner, nestled on the edge of the forest. The food was comforting and homemade—think great cheeses, warm salads, and generous desserts. And the setting again was SO picturesque, with pine trees setting the backdrop for our meal.
But the real magic came after dinner.
We’d booked into Vercors en Lumière, at Bois Barbu, an immersive nighttime storytelling walk through the forest. Imagine winding through softly lit woodland paths while tales unfold through light installations and our headsets which told us (in English) the history of the region. The children were captivated—and honestly, so were we. Just the right kind of adventure to end the day.
Day 5 – Market Mornings, Poolside Splashing & A Perfect Last Supper
There’s something about the last day of a trip that makes you want to bottle it all up—and we did our best to soak in every little moment before heading home.
We started the day at the local market, the kids got to pick out pastries, and we picked up some last-minute gifts—jars of mountain honey, goat’s cheese, and handmade soap that now lives in our bathroom at home.
After all that wandering (and snacking), we made our way to the aquatic centre in town for one last splash. It was such a brilliant way to spend the late morning—the indoor pools were warm and clean, with enough space for energetic swimming and lazy floating. The kids loved the wave machine and the balls that are released from the ceiling! They also had an outside pool and pool bar where we stopped for a quick coffee after our swim.
Lunch was at Le Ranch, a laid-back, family-friendly restaurant where the portions were generous, and the welcome even more so. Think juicy burgers, crisp fries, and delicious pizzas. After our swim it felt like the perfect choice for an activity that had built us all up an appetite.
And then, just like that, it was our final evening.
We ended our stay with dinner at Chez Mamie, which felt like the cosiest possible send-off. The food was classic, comforting, and full of flavour— I ordered the local delicacy which are tiny raviolis filled with cheese and herbs, and something chocolatey for dessert (that we definitely didn’t need but absolutely didn’t regret). The staff made us feel like we’d been coming there for years.
As we walked home through the quiet village, full and happy, we chatted about our favourite bits of the trip (the dogs, the mountain, the night forest show all made the list). And although we were sad to leave, there was also that lovely, full-hearted feeling of having made something really special together.
Public transport info:
We travelled from London to Paris via the Eurostar and from Paris to Grenoble on the TGV service. Lines T64 and T65 (part of the Cars Région Isère / Mobilités M network) connect Grenoble Gare Routière to Villard‑de‑Lans Gare Routière.
A free shuttle service connect Villard-de-Lans to the foot of the Cóte 2000.
If you would like to see a video of our stay you can view it here or in my instagram highlights here.
Our trip was on a press basis but all words and thoughts are my own
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