Cycling the Tywi Valley Path, the ultimate traffic-free family day out. When you don’t drive, you get pretty good at planning adventures around public transport. As a family of four, we don’t own a car, so trains, buses, walking and cycling are simply part of everyday life for us. I feel really passionate about sharing car free travel and I can’t wait to share this one with you.
I genuinely don’t think that means we’re limited when it comes to family adventures — in fact, sometimes travelling without a car makes a trip even more exciting. You have to think a little differently about how you get around, but the journey becomes part of the experience rather than simply being a way of getting from A to B.
So when we were invited to explore Carmarthenshire’s new “car-free corridor”, combining the newly launched Tywi Valley Path with the Heart of Wales Line and some of the county’s traffic-free cycle routes, it sounded right up our street.
We spent three days travelling as a family of four, with two adults and two children, exploring Carmarthenshire by train, bike and on foot. And it turned out to be a brilliant combination of countryside, cycling, history, food and the coast — all without needing to get behind the wheel!
Day One: Cardiff to Carmarthen and the Tywi Valley Path
Our adventure started with a train from Cardiff to Carmarthen, arriving at Carmarthen station late in the morning. One of the things I particularly love about travelling by train with the children is that the holiday starts as soon as we leave home. There is no traffic to worry about, no navigating or parking and plenty of time to sit back and enjoy the journey.
From Carmarthen station, we took a short five minute taxi ride to Carmarthenshire Museum, where we would be starting the cycling part of our adventure.
Before getting on our bikes, we stopped for lunch at Stacey’s Kitchen. The restaurant is conveniently located next to the museum, making it a very easy place to combine with the start of the cycle route. The musuem was a really great spot to explore, having gone to university in the town I had no idea it was there! They have some great welsh history pieces as well as a stunning collection of art too.
After a delicious lunch, it was time to collect our bikes and set off on the Tywi Valley Path.
Cycling the Tywi Valley Path
The Tywi Valley Pathway gives families the opportunity to explore the area by bike while avoiding the busier roads, which makes SUCH a difference when you’re cycling with children.
We set off from the museum and followed the route towards Llandeilo, enjoying the scenery along the way. There is something particularly lovely about exploring an area at cycling speed. You’re moving quickly enough to cover a decent distance, but slowly enough to actually notice what’s around you.
For us, this was a great example of how a family day out doesn’t need to involve a car. The cycling route itself WAS the attraction.
Eventually after a couple of hours cycling we reached Llandeilo, where after a very cold refreshing drink we checked into our accommodation for the night.
Staying in Landfill
We stayed at the Cawdor Hotel, which was our base for the night. We had a two-bedroom apartment, which was perfect for the four of us after a day of travelling and cycling. I’m not sure if it was the cycling or the beds but I don’t think I’ve slept that well for a really long time!
That evening we had a three-course dinner at the hotel, including vegetarian and dairy-free options. The staff couldn’t be more accommodating and the portion sizes were very generous. We also had breakfast at the hotel the next morning which set us up perfectly for another day of exploring.
Day Two: Exploring Llandeilo and catching the Heart of Wales Line
One of the nice things about staying in the town was that we could explore completely on foot. We visited Hengwrt, the community, heritage and visitor centre, which is just a few minutes’ walk from the Cawdor. Which was small but perfectly formed small museum that my ten year old really loved especially the dressing up!
After exploring, we headed back into Llandeilo for lunch and a wander around some of the local independent shops before the next part of our adventure.
Taking the Heart of Wales Line
One of the things that makes this itinerary particularly interesting for a car-free family is that you don’t have to cycle a route and then somehow get back to where you started. Instead, you can combine the cycling routes with the railway.
We caught the Heart of Wales Line from Llandeilo to Llanelli in the afternoon. For us, travelling by train is nothing unusual, but using the railway as part of a family adventure like this makes you realise just how much of Wales can be explored without a car.
The Heart of Wales Line provides a really useful link between different parts of the country, allowing you to combine walking, cycling and rail travel rather than relying on a car. We arrived at Llanelli and walked towards the coast and Millennium Coastal Park before checking into our accommodation for the night.
A night by the coast
Our accommodation was CockleDora, a beachfront apartment in Llanelli, we had a ground floor balcony which was perfect for sitting outside with a cup of coffee in the morning or watching the sunset come down over the bay in the evening. After a day spent exploring inland it was lovely to be by the coast.
That evening we headed to St Elli Bay at North Dock for dinner. It was a great way to end the day, with the sea and coastal setting providing a complete change from the countryside and valleys we’d been exploring the day before. We’d visited St Elli’s Bay before to get ice cream in previous summers but it was a real treat to try out their brasserie.
Day Three: Cycling the Millennium Coastal Path
Our final morning began with another bike adventure. we set off along the Millennium Coastal Path from North Dock towards Burry Port.
Having spent the first day cycling through the Tywi Valley, this was a completely different experience. Instead of countryside and castles, we had the coast, harbour and sea views. It was also a lot shorter a cycle ride!
This contrast was one of my favourite things about the itinerary. Within just a few days, we’d experienced several very different sides of Carmarthenshire, without needing a car to get between them.
The Millennium Coastal Path is another great option for families because it gives you the opportunity to cycle away from busy roads while enjoying the scenery around you.
Upon arrival in Burry Port we headed for lunch at Caffi Lolfa. We loved this cafe, in fact I’d recommend this cafe alone as a reason to visit Burry Port but luckily you also have the beautiful beach to explore there too.
This was probably my favourite way to finish a family trip: bikes returned, lunch eaten, a few hours on the beach and then a train home.
Why Carmarthenshire works so well for a car-free family holiday
As a family who don’t drive, we’re always interested in places where you can have a proper holiday without a car. It’s one thing to find a destination with good public transport; it’s another to be able to build an entire itinerary around trains, walking and cycling.
What worked particularly well about this trip was the way all the different modes of transport connected together.
The itinerary was essentially a journey rather than a series of destinations. And that’s what I think makes the idea of Carmarthenshire’s “car-free corridor” so appealing.
The Tywi Valley Pathway and Heart of Wales Line can be combined to create different kinds of adventures. You could cycle one section, take the train to another destination, walk part of the route or even use the railway to create a longer linear adventure rather than having to return to your starting point.
Would we recommend it for families?
Absolutely.
I think what we enjoyed most was the variety. We weren’t spending three days doing the same thing. We had cycling, walking, trains, history, food, countryside and the coast.
There was also something quite satisfying about arriving somewhere under our own steam.
For us, being car-free isn’t something we see as a limitation. It’s simply how we travel. But trips like this are a good reminder that you don’t have to own a car to explore more of Wales. In fact, sometimes leaving the car behind means you experience a destination in a completely different way.
Our three days in Carmarthenshire took us from the Tywi Valley to Llandeilo, along the Heart of Wales Line and finally to the coast at Llanelli and Burry Port. We cycled, walked, caught trains, ate very well and even fitted in some beach time — all as a family of four and without driving a single mile.
And that’s exactly the kind of family adventure we love. To view our journey via video watch my reel here.
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